Irish Taxi Forum
Public Area => Taxi Talk => Topic started by: Dr. Martin Gooter Bling on November 08, 2018, 05:32:17 pm
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has anybody any experience of NCTing their car with the dpf filter removed.
it's a quick visual inspection to see that the casing is still there, but the guts of it were taken out.
mine kept acting the bollix and sending the car in to limp mode.
had it taken out and noticed much better fuel economy and slight more poke.
but there is a noticeable peggy dell coming from the exhaust.
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Don't run a hose from the exhaust to the car then.
What sort of car is it i.e. make/model?
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removed mine 3-4 years ago
no probs with nct
failed emissions once
drove straight to nct ( 4kms ) should have taken it for a run first ( add some dipathene )
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If you change your oil and filter a bit before the time you won't have problems with dpfs, and use good oils not Halfords shite etc.
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If you change your oil and filter a bit before the time you won't have problems with dpfs, and use good oils not Halfords shite etc.
That’s bollox. Changing oils and filters before their due won’t change that you can sit in traffic in the city send8ng fumes down to the dog full of soot and that’s what clogs it up
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the car is an avensis.
yeah even if you over maintain your car the dpf is still destined to go belly up.
It wears itself out.
the lifespan of the yoke is 200-250 thousand kilometers no matter how many forced regenerations you do to clean out the carbon build up.
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Not bollox vikkiz, my dpf notice was coming up when I started to drive over 80 kph the notice disappeared, it was coming on once a day, I had another 2500 kms to go before the oil change. It was coming on for 5 days I changed the oil and filter and everything went back to normal running. The oil holds carbon the oil was saturated with carbon from city driving when working. So the dpf is taking in more as a consequence. I have nearly 300,000 km on same dpf and all going fine, my wife has 340,000 on a 10 year 7 seat C4 Picasso on same dpf with no problems.
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I heard they are going to start failing cars in nct that have the dpf and egr valve bypassed. Heard that a few years back but they are still not failing. I wonder is it around the corner.
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use to fail regulary on emissions but now about a week before the test i use liqui molli diesel purge it cleand the injectors and loosens up the carbon then mix a drop of kerro with the diesel burns hotter than diesel so burns off the loosened carbon then add a bottle of dippo to about a scores worth of diesel the day before the test so it has worked it way into the fuel filter last 4 tests have been below .3
Brush who use to post on Roys put me on to Liqui Molli diesel purge Irecomend it to anybody having problems with emissions .
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How easy is it to remove a DPF. Could you just store the clean filter for the NCT or is there a whole lot of fucking about involved?
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software remap
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How easy is it to remove a DPF. Could you just store the clean filter for the NCT or is there a whole lot of fucking about involved?
it's a bastard of a job. it sits between the bottom rear of the engine and the body. my mechanic had to drop part of the frame to get at it. it was a whole day job.
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i was told by my mechanic
300 to take out and remap or over a grand to fix
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I suspect engine oil has some bearing on the DPF. On VAG engines the maximum variable service interval was reduced to 30,000 kilos from 50,000 for models that may be fitted with DPFs - there are cases of the same engine being used with and without DPFs. Also, for DPF models the longer life (thinner, 5W30) oil is specified for both fixed and variable service intervals whereas the thicker (and cheaper) 10W40 is specified for fixed service intervals where no DPF is fitted.
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Not bollox vikkiz, my dpf notice was coming up when I started to drive over 80 kph the notice disappeared, it was coming on once a day, I had another 2500 kms to go before the oil change. It was coming on for 5 days I changed the oil and filter and everything went back to normal running. The oil holds carbon the oil was saturated with carbon from city driving when working. So the dpf is taking in more as a consequence. I have nearly 300,000 km on same dpf and all going fine, my wife has 340,000 on a 10 year 7 seat C4 Picasso on same dpf with no problems.
Does your missus sit in city traffic all day everyday for 6 hours at a time?
What motor are you driving?
Most cars driven in the city don’t get hot enough to allow the carbon to burn off, @nd this is what clogs up the dpf
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Citroen C5?
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I see you can get a DPF cleaning system in the auto shop.
Works the same as the blue tech system.
Take the heap out on the motorway at night and floor it and clean the chimney.
That's the way to do it. rofl
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When i knock my yoke off the fan still runs for a few minutes. As I'm new to diesels I didn't know why until I consulted me user manual. Supposedly it's the dpf regenerating. Do all diesels have this and does it actually work?
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When i knock my yoke off the fan still runs for a few minutes. As I'm new to diesels I didn't know why until I consulted me user manual. Supposedly it's the dpf regenerating. Do all diesels have this and does it actually work?
my car does it and its a 14 skoda octavia. Hopefully it works. 3000000 k on and haven't a a problem yet.
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Grand. Long way to go before it hits that kinda kilometreage.
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After your shift when pulling away from the lights rev it up into the red in first that will blow away all the crap clean out the system.
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After your shift when pulling away from the lights rev it up into the red in first that will blow away all the crap clean out the system.
Probably take half the neighbourhood out aswell.....give it a go Al!!
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I think I'll give it a miss if its regenerating itself :)
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After your shift when pulling away from the lights rev it up into the red in first that will blow away all the crap clean out the system.
Preferably with a Rickshaw behind you. 8)
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Vikkis, I'm driving an 2011 Citroen C5 it just passed 300,000 kms working the streets of Galway, dpfs give a warning if your crawling around town and it needs cleaning out then ya need to give it a run at 80kph to start the regen as soon as possible for nearly 10 mins and if you ever heard fan the going when ya got out of the car that's it cooling itself down after the regen. change the oil 3k sooner if your city driving all the time and you wont have dpf problems. Im speaking from experience.
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I’ve only recently had my dpf removed and car remapped. Not once has any mechanic I’ve spoken to suggested that I should change the oil sooner than it’s due.
So in your experience it’s change the oil sooner. In mine I just removed it so it won’t cause me any issues
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Did you have issues before getting it removed - issues with the DPF, that is.
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Did you have issues before getting it removed - issues with the DPF, that is.
Yes it got clogged up, apparently from not changing my oil every 6000miles, and nothing to do with driving at crappy speeds in the city, not getting the engine hot enough to burn off the carbon.
What I’d noticed was, when I started at 3am as normal, no problems. But if I started at 7:30am, I’d suffer with issues with it all day. When it actually happened I was stuck in schools traffic in Rathoath.
However, I had been having an underlying issue which has been sorted and th3 car is like brand new again. And no, I have no idea what the issue was but it’s sorted
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If ya changed your oil every 10,000 miles and drove it over 50 mph for 10 mins when you got the dpf nearly full warning ya wouldn't be having problems with it. Or else just get a petrol yoke. Nct rules changing soon to check for dpfs are where they should be. What kind of a car are ya driving anyway that doesn't give a warning.
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I doubt you'd have to do it at 6,000 miles, Vz. I know your car is a UK import Skoda so it will either have a fixed service interval of 10,000 miles or a variable service interval. The identification plate/stickers tell you which applies. Either way, with the DPF models you must use the thinner oil i.e. 5W30 fully synthetic to VW504.00/VW 507.00 specification.
My Skoda (non DPF) is a variable interval model which means, provided you reset the service interval via the OBD interface - using a tool such as Ross Tech or OBD Eleven - you don't need to change the oil until the "service" display comes on. As I always change my oil at 20,000 kilo intervals the display has never come on. Well it did once because I deliberately neglected to reset it when I changed the oil just to see when (and check that) it kicks in, on that occasion it was at 28,xxx kilos which is pretty close to the maximum interval which is set at 30,000 kilos by default - used to be 50,000 kilos on the older engines that were never used with DPFs.
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And just to add the new diesels don't have that problem anymore ya can run them normally around town and it regens anyway.
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What's the craic with these long life services on the daysels, Joe Duffy did the last service on my yoke an he reckons the long life service interval is 30k. I wouldn't trust it meself. Hard to believe the oil would stay healthy for that long.
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On VAG cars the variable service interval has been around for a long time. 30,000 kilos is the maximum for diesels with DPFs but the display will tell you when it wants the oil changed, I think it gives you a countdown starting at 1,500 kilos or something like that...provided it is set using the OBD interface, if it's set using the clock controls it'll revert to fixed service interval i.e. 15,000 kilos.
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The last 5k the display gives a warning for a service when the car starts. The yoke was serviced when I bought it and the next service on the screen was in 15k which must've been regular oil. Last service they asked did I want a long life service for 20 quid extra which by their reckoning is 30k but I wouldn't trust it so I think I'll leave it back in for a service at 20k just to be on the safe side.
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The so-called long life oil is specified for both fixed service and variable service intervals on DPF models as far as VAG cars are concerned.
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The last 5k the display gives a warning for a service when the car starts. The yoke was serviced when I bought it and the next service on the screen was in 15k which must've been regular oil. Last service they asked did I want a long life service for 20 quid extra which by their reckoning is 30k but I wouldn't trust it so I think I'll leave it back in for a service at 20k just to be on the safe side.
But did you pay the extra 20 squid to drive 10k less?
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No, 5k more. I don't know, Hal. I'm wary of these long life scams. Why are there 2 different options. If one is better than the other it should be standard to service all cars with the better one don't ya think?
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Absolutely.....don't know why they even offer a "lower" grade oil....Foreskin Sprung Technique should be their motto!!
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Go with manufacture recommendations as specified in your handbook. They are best placed to know what they're talking about. VAG cars that are designated variable service intervals are supposed to be clever enough to know when they need an oil change, subject to the 30/50k limits.
My own approach is probably best on balance - use the so called long life oil and change it at 20,000 kilos unless the car asks for it sooner - very unlikely. However, there are probably trade offs in using the long life oil - although, last time I checked the same oil was specified for VAG diesels with DPFs on fixed service intervals - i.e. the thinner consistency provides less protection for cold starts and such like. That seems to broadly concur with the following advice from Volkswagen:
https://www.volkswagen.co.uk/owners/servicing/regimes (https://www.volkswagen.co.uk/owners/servicing/regimes)
As a Volkswagen owner, you will already have experienced the pleasure of driving a car that's renowned for reliability. So when it comes to servicing it, why settle for second best? Visit your local Volkswagen Retailer or authorised repairer who will be ready to help you every step of the way. Their staff are fully trained in every aspect of servicing to ensure you continue to enjoy mile after mile of trouble-free driving.
You can choose from two types of service regimes, depending on your driving methods.
Fixed Service (Time and Distance)
We recommend this service if you are likely to drive less than 10,000* miles in a year, and if you tend to drive in the following way:
Mainly city centre driving, short journeys with frequent cold starts
High engine loading activities, e.g. frequent hill climbs, driving with your vehicle fully loaded and towing
Uneconomical driving using high rpms with heavy acceleration and heavy braking.
Flexible Service Regime (LongLife Service)
We recommend this service if you are likely to drive more than 25 miles a day, and if you tend to drive in the following way:
Regular long distance driving
Driving at a constant speed with minimum vehicle and engine loading, and minimal towing
Economical driving
This Flexible regime has been made possible due to the development of new Volkswagen engines with the latest technically advanced longlife oil. These engines use built-in sensors that continually monitor the oil quality, making it possible to enjoy reliable and confident motoring for up to a maximum of 18,000* miles or 24 months (whichever occurs first).
*Please note that all mileages are approximate as the service indicator system uses kilometres as the distance measurement.
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Yes rats it a Skoda Import, a 1.9 greenline which unfortunately for me means they added the doc in as an after thought to the PD engine. I don’t know if it’s fixed or variable but as its high mileage I do it every 9k miles and use 5w30.
C5, my car doesnt tell me it’s nearly full. The light comes on and that means it needs a good run in 4th gear at 2000 revs up the M1. I had been doing this any time the light came on but this time due to this underlying issue the light never came on to warn me.
It’s gone from my car now and i might not have to get it NCT’d again so IDGAF
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does your car go in to limp mode when you get the dpf light on.
on the avensis the car power downs, you get a check parking brake warning, a traction control warning, a check engine light and a few others.
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does your car go in to limp mode when you get the dpf light on.
on the avensis the car power downs, you get a check parking brake warning, a traction control warning, a check engine light and a few others.
Can you not remove a fuse .those lights annoy the fuck out of you .
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Yes rats it a Skoda Import, a 1.9 greenline which unfortunately for me means they added the doc in as an after thought to the PD engine. I don’t know if it’s fixed or variable but as its high mileage I do it every 9k miles and use 5w30.
Some mechanics would argue that you are suffering the disadvantages of the thinner oil (less protection on cold starts, more camshaft wear, etc) without necessarily reaping the rewards (longer service intervals). The identification sticker will give the manufacturers specified service regime. As far as I recall QG1 is variable and QG0 or QG2 are fixed. Variable can be changed to fixed but fixed shouldn't be changed to variable.
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" I DON'T KNOW WHAT A DPF FILTER IS!!" 8)
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does your car go in to limp mode when you get the dpf light on.
I wouldn't be surprised if Al's flute goes into limp mode with the yokes i've seen him transporting around in his VAG!!
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does your car go in to limp mode when you get the dpf light on.
on the avensis the car power downs, you get a check parking brake warning, a traction control warning, a check engine light and a few others.
Not for me, it went into limp mode because of something else